Unbelievably this is the array of activities we squeezed into one day:
1. Casa Luna Cooking School
After a speedy breakfast we set off at 7.30 am for cooking school. First step was a trip to the market or Pasar to experience the sights and smells of the huge array of produce for sale. Whilst many of us are familiar with Asian ingredients, Oleg, our guide found a number that were new to us, such as torch ginger and white eggplants. A big winner was the purchasing of some sets of men's and women's knives safely housed in leather pouches. Super sharp and carefully weighted for men and women's strength there will no doubt be many a fabulous dish prepared using them (and hopefully no serious accidents. The hustle and bustle of the market was great.
After all of that exertion it was a walk to Honeymoon villas to cook.
But of course we couldn't possibly start any serious work without morning tea! Rice, vegies, porridge Balinese style and coconut pancakes fortified us for the tasks to follow. Yude our teacher was a delightful skilled chef with a wicked sense of humour. Before long some of us were chopping, grinding, slicing and cooking delicious Balinese delicacies: chicken curry with chokoes, eggplant with tomato and chili, fish in a spicy sauce, fern salad and, most importantly, raw and cooked sambal with lots of chillies. We soon learnt that a pinch of salt in Balinese cooking was a huge amount- more like a half a handful!
Some of our party took the time to have a rest whilst the others worked. But they all miraculously appeared when the tantalizing food appeared.
2. A safari trip to Pejeng
The excitement grew when we left the cooking school to discover that our next form of transport was to be a peculiarly Balinese vehicle: the Safari or jeep. These rough and ready vehicles with a fold down roof are perfect for traveling around the unpredictable roads. Fortunately a few drops of rain came and went so we could head off with the roof down and our hair blowing in the wind. The need for hats and sunscreen became clear as we headed along the picturesque route to Pejeng. We knew there was a bushfire somewhere and were rather startled to come across a fire engine traveling at a very slow pace despite the need for some urgency!
When we were almost in Pejeng there was a slight hiccup: alongside some rice fields some new deep drains were being constructed. When our procession of safaris came around the corner we were confronted by a huge digger blocking the road. Finding space to do u-turns was tricky but soon the menagerie was headed to Pejeng via a different route
3. A visit to Gusri's family compound
Feeling a little disheveled we entered the family compound to be greeted by Gusri, one of the leaders of the Pejeng community. As we walked into the compound we could hear the sounds of the local women's gamelan orchestra playing to welcome us. Their sarongs of bright yellow, kabayas of bright emerald green and their amazing bouffant hair was dazzling. The gamelan music with its complex rhythms, tinkling 'xylophones' and strong beats was wonderful.Next was a stroll around the compound so Gusri could explain about the design of the buildings and the family temple
The significance of the directions the buildings face and the different heights of each building was explained so we could appreciate the care taken.
The importance of offerings was explained again whilst some of the ladies showed us some new styles
Cooking neon delicacies & Bali cakes for afternoon tea;
We are spirited to see the vivid colours the women used to create the soft rice pastries that were deep fried: some artist and skill required as we discovered. A table was groaning with drinks and plates of Bali cakes (which few of us could face after cooking school lunch!) But the black rice pudding with coconut milk was great.
After the gamelan ladies played again it was our turn. Some of us volunteered-or were volunteered by our supposed friends. It would be fair to say that the first few minutes were musical chaos as I bashed a drum, Sue played the equivalent of a xylophone, Jan played a stores of tin drums, Anne hit a huge gong and Thelma đdelicately played the"turtles" (a set of tiny cymbals). As we slowly got the idea it sounded a lot more melodic. Then I started to worry about how we would know when to stop! Fortunately the instructor, who clapped the beat anytime we strayed, started to clap more slowly and we ended quite elegantly I thought. Not only was it hard physical work but it was LOUD!
The women all thought it was fun judging by the smiles on their faces, and they seemed pleased when Jenny gave each of them a small kangaroo pin to say thank you.
What is life like for Balinese women?
I had asked Coki, one of the leaders in the Women's Association to talk about the life of Balinese women, which she did very enthusiastically. The role of spirituality and the focus on community is clearly an integral part of Balinese life. She spoke about access to health and education, and the challenges of combining work, housework (including making 50 offering baskets each day) and family commitments. Some challenges are the same the world over!
Finally we farewelled everyone and walked the short distance to Madali,shock is owned by my Australian friend Alison and her Balinese partner Made.
4. Visiting Kebun Madali Villas and Organic Garden
Set amongst the rice fields we settled in for a relaxing evening doing my favourite activity - watching the rice grow.
We:
- drank iced Rosella tea and some wine
-listened to live music courtesy of Made and many of his friends and family. A very eclectic selection ranging from Dolly Parton ( Made's latest passion!) to Bob Dylan to Balinese pop to the theme from Rawhide!!
- enjoyed massages from Dita and two of the local Pejeng women: very relaxing
- were served a wonderful traditional Baselines meal including
Babi Guling (whole Roast Suckling Pig) and lots of local Balinese delicacies
-watched beautiful elegant Balinese dancing by Coki's daughters and niece.
After a wonderful day we dragged ourselves on to the bus and headed back to collapse in bed and marvel at our endurance.
Your happy and more informed correspondent
Dianne
No comments:
Post a Comment